tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-361323222011-10-07T00:32:31.524-05:00The dress diaries, research and documentation, and various arts & sciences projects of Catrijn vanden WesthendeCatrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.comBlogger721100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-54939611848940724252010-12-26T17:48:00.003-05:002010-12-26T17:51:10.288-05:00

I recently lost my access to a small webhosting account where I had just a few images. I've gone through the ones that I know were broken and fixed them, but if you see any other placeholders indicating a missing image, leave a comment so that I can replace it. Unfortunately, I have nothing else to report - my new job keeps me quite busy, and I haven't had time to pick up the needle in months.

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-85715247118120727522010-08-29T14:04:00.001-05:002010-08-29T14:05:12.062-05:00

Sleeves with elbows set Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I decided that I wanted really simple sleeves to go with this dress, so I drafted these from one of the examples in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. They came together really nicely and happened to fit well with only the most minor of adjustments (I needed a little more flare at the top of the seam). They're lined in a lightweight

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-46821287667211456622010-08-01T11:31:00.001-05:002010-08-01T11:34:57.216-05:00

Robe Anglais progress, front Originally uploaded by Catrijn. At first glance, this progress photo on my 18th c. dress looks a lot like the previous one that I posted last year. But in the details, there's actually been some progress. The petticoat is hemmed, and many of the bodice seams are sewn rather than pinned or basted. I turned up a deep seam allowance on the lower edge of the

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-85338945246922547942010-06-29T11:23:00.001-05:002010-08-01T11:35:02.991-05:00

Partlet Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I recently finished a simple partlet that I hope to wear with my Kampfrau dress. It's a lightweight coating-style black wool, lined with lightweight white linen because I can be very sensitive to wool around my neck. I'm not really going to talk about the design of it, since I used someone else's pattern rather than doing my own research, but

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-25215583956116687002010-06-14T10:04:00.002-05:002010-06-14T10:09:16.312-05:00

We interrupt your regularly scheduled programming for this important announcement:It's been very quiet here, but there's a good reason for that. Last week, I successfully defended my Ph.D. thesis, completing many years of hard work to earn my degree. My professional field is unrelated to historical clothing, so I'm not going to go into details here, but with that finished, I may have more time

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-27925454008341078592010-04-05T09:05:00.002-05:002010-04-05T09:06:37.923-05:00

Housebook dress Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I've covered the inspiration and construction in previous posts, so there's not a lot to say other than here's the finished product.The chemises worn with this dress seem somewhat variable - some aren't visible, and those that are seem to have various cuts and styles, so I haven't made one particular for this gown (although a low-necked

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-77148937460247520622010-04-02T22:43:00.003-05:002010-04-02T23:34:14.476-05:00

When I set out to make this dress, I had grand visions of ultra-simple geometric construction, where with just a few cuts and strategic manipulation of the shoulders, the whole dress (including the pleats) would just fall into place. My theory was that it might be cut similarly to my contemporary Burgundian gown, with the the neckline being a straight edge continuous with the front seam. Two

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-46458439334453665022010-03-31T10:48:00.005-05:002010-03-31T12:06:07.741-05:00

I was fortunate to be able to attend an event earlier in March where some VIPs (dear friends of mine) had a cultural theme of late 15th c. German. Now, about half of my wardrobe is passably late 15th c. Dutch/Flemish, and that's close enough, right? Well it could have been, but I decided I wanted at least one dress that really screamed German, and to me that meant a Housebook or Durer style

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-1007725449953252972010-03-23T14:11:00.001-05:002010-03-23T14:12:37.730-05:00

Taymouth hours gown Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I first saw this particular illustration from the Taymouth Hours (ca. 1325-1350) a couple years ago, and I've wanted a dress in this style ever since. It's a woman, hunting a rabbit, and the dress she wears seems like it'd be very practical for shooting in the cooler parts of the year. It's short enough to not to get muddy, leaves the

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-75384260226913519872010-03-01T19:07:00.001-05:002010-03-01T19:09:11.273-05:00

Moy gown, fitting sleeves Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I got some work on my Moy gown done while watching the Olympics, which means that it now has eyelets for the front opening (10 per side, 1 inch apart, arranged for spiral lacing). With the front closure done, I could check how it's hanging, so now the hem is also done. All that's left on the body is to turn under the neckline,

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-19893869197093660002010-02-21T11:15:00.001-05:002010-02-21T11:16:50.521-05:00

Moy gown facing Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This is the front opening of my version of the Moy gown, ready for eyelets (a change from the original, which had buttons at front). I've done just a single turn under of the edge, covered with a silk grosgrain ribbon which I was eventually able to find at Wm. Booth Draper. The scrap at lower right shows at test eyelet (which turned out

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-15240269967974019502009-12-07T10:29:00.001-05:002009-12-07T10:30:52.265-05:00

Moy gown interior 1 Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I've been working on the Moy gown in fits and spurts. I'm actually farther along than is shown at right - many of the seams are finished and flat-felled now, although others are still just basted. I've decided to use machine sewing for assembly, but hand sewing for flat-felling, since that will show through a bit on the front.The

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-62681171279438757722009-11-14T11:49:00.001-05:002009-11-14T11:50:37.998-05:00

Fitting new skirts (front) Originally uploaded by Catrijn. So, after the let-down caused by actually following the pattern directions, I'm going to consider them more like 'suggestions', starting with re-drafting the top of the skirt portion. Here's a picture of the new piece, laid out flat. And, as you can see with the pleats set in, the top of the skirts reach the waist without

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-47040581384714685082009-10-26T22:17:00.001-05:002009-10-26T22:17:50.063-05:00

Hip-emphasis bumroll Originally uploaded by Catrijn. So, there's good news and bad news on the 18th c. English dress. First, I found a scrap big enough to make a bumroll, shown at right. I would have liked a little bit more length so that I could taper the ends in and not have the ties coming out at such an odd angle. It fits well, though, and puts a fair bit of emphasis on my already

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-9793553459670540272009-10-23T09:21:00.004-05:002009-10-23T10:38:04.248-05:00

It might be time to admit that I have a problem. Once I have all the materials on hand to start a project, it gradually but inexorably becomes irresistible. So although my plate is already full with everything else I'm working on, I just couldn't not start the 18th c. open robe anglais I've been thinking of.Actually, I was really itching to cut into the the main fabric (a linen-cotton blend

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-22769077243159779482009-10-05T14:19:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:20:50.731-05:00

1470s Burgundian gown Originally uploaded by Catrijn. From the archives: the green Burgundian V-neck gown that I made in 2005-2006.Few dresses are as iconic of medieval fashion as the V-neck gown that was popular in the court of the Dukes of Burgundy around 1475, thus called by reenactors the Burgundian gown. The fashion extended to nearby regions as well, of course, particularly the Low

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-41153164671320914612009-09-19T22:24:00.002-05:002009-09-19T22:27:44.974-05:00

Moy gown, partially basted, front Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Well, it doesn't look too impressive at this stage, but my Moy gown is now cut and (mostly) basted into shape. There's a lot left unfinished - I haven't slipped the front sleeve gores in, or the front or back skirt gores, and the seams are either temporary or only pinned so far.Some of the apparent fitting problems here

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-1454818696196442502009-09-14T20:53:00.002-05:002009-09-14T21:07:11.854-05:00

The muslin for the Moy gown has been beaten into submission, more or less. After following the pattern instructions initially, to understand the spatial relationships of the pieces, it was easiest to make adjustments by ignoring them completely. I'll have to do most of the work again, since I wouldn't expect the wool twill I'm using for the real thing to behave the same way as cotton muslin,

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-81072868781895999512009-09-09T21:32:00.002-05:002009-09-09T21:38:46.489-05:00

I cut pieces and assembled a muslin for a Moy gown tonight. On one hand, I'm glad I didn't do this with 'real' fabric. On the other hand, I'm sorry I didn't just study the line drawings and then drape/draft from scratch, since that's probably what I'm going to be doing next. I might pick apart the muslin and see if the pieces are salvageable if I come at the assembly differently, but what I've

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-45632453834132519362009-07-21T09:04:00.006-05:002009-07-21T09:28:45.170-05:00

Surcoat, first fitting, belted front Originally uploaded by Catrijn. The sleeveless surcoat is shaping up quite nicely, thanks to the wonder of rectangular construction. Here I've got all the main seams just pinned together so I can check the fit.My main inspiration for this project is the attendants in these two images from the Manesse Codex, and also this one from the Luttrell Psalter.

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-47977010404001106092009-06-24T09:23:00.003-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.185-05:00

Finished strapless stays Originally uploaded by Catrijn. So, here they are, the finally finished 18th century strapless stays. Only took about 10 times longer than I expected (granted, that includes many, many months of inactivity on the project). The edges are bound with a wool twill tape. The half-inch width looks just right when folded over and in place, but something slightly wider

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-69689194549420626972009-06-08T08:47:00.004-05:002009-06-08T09:44:22.692-05:00

Every few years, I take some time to write up a big list of sewing projects I'd like to do, and since it had been a while since the last one, it seemed like time to do a bit of planning again. Not to mention that the fabric stash has had much greater inflow than outflow recently, so there was a lot of material that needed to be assigned to projects.I just got new patterns for the Moy gown, and

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-23032254144872300122009-05-20T08:51:00.002-05:002009-05-20T09:28:56.378-05:00

The last stage of making the apron is attaching it to a narrow waistband which extends past the edges into long ties. Between part 2 and today's entry, I hemmed the raw edges around the sides and bottom of the apron panel. Ideally, this should have been done at the very beginning of the project, before pleating, but it didn't present any problems since I purposely left a little width unpleated

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-54706769759655302492009-05-18T10:28:00.004-05:002009-05-18T11:10:52.351-05:00

Part two for this smocked apron consists of the actual smocking stitches. Smocking has been described (accurately, I think) as embroidery on pleats, rather than a flat ground. And like the various other forms embroidery, smocking has it's own set of stitches. Fortunately, however, they tend to be simple (most are variants on backstitch) and they are generally worked in straight rows rather

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-23042977480848777262009-05-16T11:51:00.007-05:002009-05-16T12:22:59.560-05:00

An apron is one of those accessories that can really make the look of an outfit, particularly when dressing in the style of a working woman. (They don't disappear from the clothes of richer women, until you get to very formal court attire, they just get fancier and more decorative.) Aprons aren't just for women, either, some men wore them too (cooks, feast servers, butchers, etc., as well as

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-26442871865311756822009-05-10T00:04:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:38:00.936-05:00

Blue foundation gown, front Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Additional pictures: back viewHere's one from the archives: a dress I've had for a while, but haven't written up here yet. This is a blue linen gown/kirtle that's a very basic part of my 15th century wardrobe. I have several similar ones, but this one in particular is cut with a very wide and very low neckline for wearing with

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-14401832112584060962009-05-09T20:05:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.185-05:00

Strapless stays final fitting adjustments Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I had to rip out my center insert to re-do the boning channels, because they were neither straight nor even. While I was at it, I did a lot of basted fitting to double check whether I really needed it. In the end, I trimmed the new piece down to a mere 1 inch finished width. It doesn't seem like it ought to make

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-47843139852781274492009-04-28T09:36:00.003-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.186-05:00

What with my new copy of Fashion in Detail, working on the strapless stays, and a trip to the Fort Frederick Market Fair this weekend, I seem to have the 18th century on the brain. The dress that has really caught my fancy is this one in the V&A's collection. It is English, estimated at mid 1770s, in a pumpkin color that I'd probably look awful in. If you don't have the book for reference, the

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-33527858141388727802009-04-17T20:25:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.186-05:00

So, after months and months of a mixture of avoidance and denial, the truth is obvious: the strapless stays are not likely to stretch out to my size, and neither will I shrink to theirs. Rather than abandoning them, I'm still going to try to make them work. So tonight, I pulled the reed out of a few channels on either side of the center front, and picked open that seam. I managed to find all

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-13494823877738457242009-04-16T15:59:00.003-05:002009-04-16T16:16:36.988-05:00

Oh, my poor neglected blog. Today's (brief) note is about availability of some very nice books. New high-quality softcover editions of the V&A's Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail, and Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail have been released this spring (earlier editions were becoming hard to find). Both are full of close-up, full-color photographs of extant garments, with

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-3750358974588796252009-01-12T08:04:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.573-05:00

Finished 'fleur-de-lys' gown with hat Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I really had a great time at 12th Night in this outfit; the hat especially is just so much fun (and other people seemed to think so too, which always makes my day).Final wrap-up on the project:The dress I am mostly happy with, although it's been a long road with some serious doubts along the way. It doesn't look quite

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-6705747064815677522009-01-07T10:29:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.573-05:00

Feathered hat top Originally uploaded by Catrijn. There's nothing like a deadline to get you moving on a project. I really want this hat finished for 12th Night, which is this weekend, as it will really make or break the outfit. It's looking good from the top, but the side shows the truth. And yes, it will be completely covered in feathers, aside from the inside band. Actually, I'm a

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-25889033289929540312008-12-02T10:59:00.003-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.574-05:00

Very few historical outfits are complete without the appropriate headgear. Even when hats or veils aren't particularly called for, the right hairstyle can really put the finishing touch on an ensemble. And since I'm primarily working in the 15th century, I have a delightful variety of outlandish hats to choose from.The hat I am working on at the moment will accompany the fleur-de-lys gown in

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-90560543123412760522008-11-16T13:32:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.574-05:00

Finished fleur-de-lys gown Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Over the past week or so, I've slowly finished the hemming on this gown - both for the contrast band and the inner lining - and secured the lining to the main fabric around the bottom edge. Which means that it is finally, completely finished! I'm planning to wear this to 12th Night, so I probably won't get any 'all dressed up'

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-36192441547860993592008-10-26T16:24:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.574-05:00

Two hem possibilities Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Sometimes you've just got to put your butt in the chair and work on things, even if you're not inspired.I realized I had a whole day for projects, with nothing planned, and I figured I'd just start working on this dress again so that I can get it off my 'in-progress' list. I still hadn't decided on a floor-skimming vs. a

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-27169896893799724592008-08-24T13:48:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.575-05:00

IMG_0293.JPG Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Neither I nor this dress are dead yet. I've just set in the sleeves and started attaching the lining.

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-65961468455737086032008-06-24T08:46:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.575-05:00

A bit of progress on the Très Riches Heures gown: I've done the preliminary fitting, so it's not quite so oversized. I cut back the lining to match the adjustments to the fashion fabric, and started assembling that. I went back and cut the gores for the lining as well, since I had neglected to do that originally. It may still need to be taken in further, but its starting to shape up. Once I

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-39919138266027938982008-05-10T20:40:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.575-05:00

Sleeves macro Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I've now finished both sleeves, shown in extreme close-up here. Next up is going to be fitting the main gown - I left a lot of ease when I did the cutting, so it's approximately the right shape but rather oversized. Combined with the strong hand of the fabric, it looks like its wearing me rather than vice versa. Pulling it in to be more

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-35382482383049920862008-05-09T10:39:00.002-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.575-05:00

I'm very slowly making progress on my Très Riches Heures gown (no pictures right now), but it's beginning to feel like less of a work in progress and more like a (perpetually) unfinished object. The distinction being the optimism, or lack thereof, about whether it will ever be finished. The lining is very thin, which by itself isn't a problem, but when I turned and pressed the first sleeve, the

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-39488594018508580722008-03-03T17:44:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:32:51.014-05:00

Hedeby-style apron dress Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This dress has been done for months, but I hadn't gotten any pictures of it until now. Like I outlined in my post on creating the pattern, it's a very simple cut with 4 identical panels, and each panel has a vertical dart for tailoring. The darts in the back are much shallower than the ones in the front, and might be skipped

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-50900229215667401692008-01-30T10:41:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.576-05:00

Way back in April of last year, I mentioned plans for a court gown based on one in Très Riches Heures. Nine months later, I have finally convinced myself to cut into the very expensive fabric I'm using for the project. I'm using a very simple cut for the gown, to make best use of my limited yardage (6 yards, but only 30 inches wide, with a directional pattern to boot). The front and back are

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-33690102843866283432008-01-15T10:07:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.186-05:00

Trying on (back) Originally uploaded by Catrijn. With all the eyelets now done, I can finally actually try these stays on. The fit isn't nearly as bad as I had feared (going to show that holding something up and trying to pull the edges together with your hands isn't a good approximation of lacing it up properly). Still, there's no denying that they are a noticeably small overall. In

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-40784935863762761262008-01-10T09:54:00.000-05:002008-01-10T10:05:13.437-05:00

It's been remarkably quiet here, and there's exactly one reason for that: my sewing projects haven't been getting much love lately. There have been plenty of distractions, and winter weather doesn't help (my crafts and projects room is far and away the coldest area of our home in the winter), and the result is that things just haven't gotten done. I've got that spark back in my eye, though, so

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-86193600764135479182007-11-20T14:44:00.002-05:002010-12-26T17:41:13.872-05:00

General purpose 15th c. chemise Originally uploaded by Catrijn. After a bit of experimentation, I've found a basic chemise design that's comfortable, simple to make, and works well with the majority of my historical wardrobe (that being clothes from 15th c. northwest Europe). If I venture to other times and places, I may need a different style of underwear, but when I just need a new

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-10952137994435697152007-11-09T11:19:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.187-05:00

Strapless stays boned with reed Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I've finally finished getting all the boning in and the ends trimmed to the right lengths on my strapless stays. My channels ended up being a bit narrow, so it was more work than in should have been, I think. Anyway, it's 1/4" half-round reed; two per channel with flat sides together. I do definitely like the lightness of

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-70869842407841379792007-11-02T07:45:00.000-05:002007-11-02T08:09:12.464-05:00

For me, fall is a bit of a slow season for sewing (as is showing in the lack of activity here). I've finished with last season's projects, and done the mending for the clothes that got worn a lot during the warmer months. But I haven't yet geared up for any big winter projects. This year, I've also been busier than usual with work, which slows things down even more. But I have gotten a few

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-30906095960859558432007-09-14T22:49:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.187-05:00

18th c. strapless stays, sewing channels Originally uploaded by Catrijn. The more I thought about this project, the more I realized that it was an 'instant gratification' project. Not that any sewing project is truly instant gratification, but in the sense that I was much more interested in finishing the object quickly rather than devoting months to the process. To that end, I've gone

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-12623109019430414192007-09-12T08:32:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.187-05:00

I've not gotten much done on this project in the past two weeks. Basting the layers together was quick and easy, but the pieces have pretty much remained in that state ever since. I had been thinking that I would do all handsewing for this, and I started assembly with a fairly small, precise backstitch. Having done only the first seam (center front) and an inch of the second, though, the

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-74921326046989111042007-09-03T21:25:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:31:57.633-05:00

Persian garb Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This is my 16th c. Persian ensemble, with the previously blogged hat. I've got a deceptive amount of clothing on here: both visible coats are fully lined, plus the chemise-type layer and pants beneath. So it's not well suited to hot weather, yet somehow I always seem to wear it in the summertime anyway. I do like this outfit a lot; it feels

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-45914269780356007302007-08-30T20:36:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:31:57.634-05:00

I've slowly been amassing enough garments to have one complete ensemble for dressing in 16th c. Persian style. One of the last pieces is appropriate headgear, specifically this hat/tiara from Duchess Roxane Farabi's site. I've largely followed the outline she gives for creating the style, with some minor changes.I started by twisting wire to create a frame for the overall shape of the piece,

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-25740501763885104682007-08-28T12:31:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.188-05:00

Strapless stays cut out Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I picked up the fashion fabric for my stays this weekend, and now have all my pieces cut out. The fabric is a powder blue worsted wool twill, very smooth and lightweight. It was a remnant - 5/8 yd. and 58 inch wide for $7.50 - which is perfect for a project like this which doesn't take much yardage. In addition to the outer fabric

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-27504321998862873602007-08-17T10:16:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:26:22.188-05:00

Strapless stays mockup Originally uploaded by Catrijn. After spending much of the past month on pre- and post-Pennsic mending, I decided to take a break and work on something thoroughly out of SCA period. J. P. Ryan's 18th c. strapless stays pattern is one that I've had in my stash for a while, and it struck my fancy. I'm not sure why - I've never done 1700s re-enactment, and I don't

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-52134770311491029012007-08-17T09:22:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:32:51.014-05:00

herringbone stitch front Originally uploaded by Catrijn. The write-up for the Hedeby find lists herringbone stitch as being used to finish the top edge, and I've done likewise, as shown here. It's a slightly unusual choice, as herringbone is more typically done as a decorative stitch or in simple embroidery. Thinking about it, though, it should be a fairly effective way of finishing a

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-23359124508206503462007-07-17T09:44:00.002-05:002010-12-26T17:47:34.944-05:00

There's something wonderful about being able to pull a pattern out of the drawer, cut without making adjustments, sew it right up, and know that it's going to fit. After several years, I've finally reached that point with my hose. Which is a very good thing, as I try to replace all of my older pairs that I've worn out. Obviously, for something as close-fitting as hose, no commercial pattern

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-43383111440347090512007-05-06T21:33:00.004-05:002009-10-05T14:32:51.014-05:00

Hedeby fragment based apron dress pattern (crop) Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Let me preface this by saying that Viking-era Norse is totally outside the areas I normally research. As much as I am not an expert on the topics I normally write about, I am even less of an expert on this.There's a nearly dizzying array of different apron dress styles and reconstruction theories. For this

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-24447981449097872772007-04-12T16:10:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:32:51.015-05:00

My wonderful and generous sweetheart has saved me from the fabric disaster that I mentioned last time. We split a 10+ yard piece 50/50, and I washed only my part, so his is still smooth and not fulled-felted. Fortunately for me, he had no particular plans for his fabric yet, so he has offered to switch in exchange for me making him a cloak from the now thick, fuzzy stuff. So my apron dress

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-60239883009584382972007-04-02T09:44:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:23:05.576-05:00

Herringbone wool twill - before and after washing Originally uploaded by Catrijn. My sewing room has been rather quiet for the last month, but I've been making plans for the new season. I've made a list of things I want to make this year, and it's a long one! Hopefully, real life won't interfere too much, although it's threatening.Top on my list is more low-maintenance clothes for

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-44312230921470732372007-03-05T20:27:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.634-05:00

Finished Kampfrau gown Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This is my finished early 16th c. German common woman's outfit. I'm very pleased with how everything turned out. Gown is heavy wool and trimmed in a lighter wool, with bodice lined and interlined in linen; sewn with silk and some linen thread and closes with hooks and eyes. Hemd (chemise) is lightweight linen, sewn with linen and

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-11624176746064335512007-02-18T14:48:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.635-05:00

kampfrau_smocking Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This is the hemd (chemise, shift, whatever) I'm working on to go with the green and black kampfrau gown. I've got a little under a week to get everything finished and ready to go, and it looks like I'll make it. The gown itself is finished and I've got feathers on my hat, so all that's left is this, and it mostly just needs seam

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-54777297688523481272007-01-08T10:26:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.635-05:00

kampfrau_progress_front Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I finally got enough hooks and eyes onto the dress to model it. Actually, I ran out of hooks and eyes just above waist level, which is why I'm holding the rest of the opening closed. There's a photo of the back here. What remains to be done is attaching the skirt permanently (it is just pinned now) and sleeves, obviously.

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-16463184458506699912006-12-30T22:51:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.636-05:00

kampfrau_skirtjoined Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I've sewn all the pleats down onto the linen tape, and then pinned the whole thing onto the bodice to re-check fit. I apparently drafted the bodice a bit too long-waisted, and had to move the skirts about an inch higher than expected. It's just as well, because the bottom edge otherwise would have needed to be shortened. The

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-51066654189302004442006-12-27T13:36:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.636-05:00

kampfrau_skirtpleated Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Since the last update, I've sewn the side seams and a front opening on the skirt panels, and, as the picture shows, pinned the pleats in place. I've pleated onto a linen tape that is cut and marked to the measurements of the bottom of the bodice. That gives me a bit more stability to pick things up and move them around compared to

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-25616241639317646032006-12-15T21:14:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.636-05:00

I've sewn the guards down to the skirt panels; about two evenings worth of work. I did end up moving the top band down by about an inch, so the spacing is a bit better. Other than that, though, the panels look a lot like they did when the guards were just positioned rather than sewn, so no new pictures yet. I probably won't have much of a chance to work on this project until after Christmas.

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-86856298022283705292006-12-11T10:56:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.637-05:00

kampfrau_skirtpanelsOriginally uploaded by Catrijn. These are the two skirt panels laid out with the slashed guards on top. They look kind of skimpy when they're just flat like that, but the pattern tells me that two 60 inch panels is quite reasonable, so I'm just going with it - that's all the fabric I have.I bought a rotary cutter and mat just to do the little football cutouts on the guards

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-25234599129001390062006-11-30T11:01:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.637-05:00

kampfrau_interlined Originally uploaded by Catrijn. Progress on the kampfrau gown has been slow, mostly due to lack of time. Since the last update, I've finished the cutouts on the guards for the bodice, and sewn them down. I've also sewn down all of my edges and seam allowances (except armscye and waist, which will be finished later). Kass's instructions have you doing this in the

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-51609433139931956312006-11-20T21:50:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:31:40.820-05:00

Early 15th c. houppelande with veils Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I made this houppelande a couple of years ago, but I think it has always suffered from a lack of appropriate headgear. So this week I made up three new linen veils to arrange in the style of this portrait by Campin. Dates for that painting seem to be around 1430.The houppelande was originally a 'scraps project' - in

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-62159587288042472282006-11-06T18:06:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.637-05:00

kampfrau_pieced Originally uploaded by Catrijn. My linen for interlining came in, so I've now got the main bodice sections sewn together. I've also gotten the cutouts done in just one of the guard pieces, shown here lying on top of its corresponding piece, but not sewn down. I did start with just slashed openings, but much like I had expected, the slashes only opened up nicely when they

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-60706174588501087682006-10-24T22:42:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:34:50.179-05:00

Schaube Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This wasn't one of my most heavily researched projects, but it was made from just materials on hand, and is fairly period. I mostly based it around woodcuts at Myra's schaube documentation. The Curious Frau's schaube dress diary also has good images (although the style shown is a bit later). The short length is unusual, but it's very convenient,

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-37518927530602228452006-10-19T20:26:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.638-05:00

I've cut all the main pieces for the kampfrau gown. The fabric is a fairly heavy wool melton in a muted green - the same fabric that I used for the 1470s Burgundian gown. I found scraps big enough for the bodice back and cuff pieces; the bodice front and sleeves (on the bias) were cut from my remaining yardage as efficiently as I could manage, and there was just barely enough left for two skirt

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-37089873577193877052006-10-17T20:10:00.000-05:002009-10-05T14:24:07.638-05:00

kampfrau_muslin Originally uploaded by Catrijn. I'm starting a new project: a Kampfrau gown in green with black guards, to look very much like this one. I'll be using Reconstructing History's pattern for 1520s German Commonwoman's Gowns, which is unusual for me (I typically draft my own). I picked the colors based on what I have enough leftover yardage of, but I thnk the scheme will

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-4194072434681240372006-10-17T08:44:00.001-05:002009-10-05T14:31:18.921-05:00

Weyden gown Originally uploaded by Catrijn. This is the first outfit I made specifically for the SCA and with an eye to historical accuracy. Previously, I'd done a fair bit of sewing, but directed toward the theatrical, Renfest, and cosplay end of the spectrum.My direct inspiration for this gown was van der Weyden's 'Deposition', although I should note that this style is not restricted

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36132322.post-80558932959869167082006-10-16T14:03:00.000-05:002006-10-16T14:18:51.023-05:00

I've decided to split off my dressmaking projects and other sewing activities from my general purpose social blog (which can be found here). I plan to have commentary and progress pictures of ongoing projects, as well as showcasing completed items, thoughts on recreation methods and theories, maybe articles on specific topics and techniques, and anything else sewing-related that strikes my fancy

Catrijn vanden Westhendehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04193112806036194244noreply@blogger.com0