Birgitta cap - wrap up

Birgitta cap - worn
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I had planned to put up a diagram for my interlacing pattern before I showed what it looks like on, but I just haven't had time to sit down and do the technical drawing. So here you have it, what the cap looks like in practice.

As you can see, especially with the folds at the sides, it's a little bit too big. I made mine noticeably bigger than the original, and I think that ultimately the right size for me would be about halfway between the two. But I really love it anyway :)

I have so many things I want to start next, and not enough time for any of them...

Birgitta cap - pleating and embroidery

Birgitta cap - pleating and embroidery
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

My cap is done, and was very well received.

Here's a close-up of some of the finishing details: pleating the bottom edge into the band, and embroidery on the band.

For the pleating, I did it as gathers onto a short running stitch, and then pushed together almost as tightly as possible. I'd sewn about 3/4 of the band on the first edge ahead of time, and then pinned the pleats down to it, and easing a little bit of a curve at the front corner. The flat parts of the band were attached with running stitch, but I switched to backstitch over the pleats to make sure each fold was caught at least once, and ended up sewing that section a second time to flatten down the folds.

With one edge of the band attached, and folds pressed to mark where it would be turned over, I free-handed the embroidery as described in Dahl and Sturtewegan's article. It's very simple to do, and really makes the edge pop. I'm very glad I ultimately added it, since I'd been debating leaving it off.

Once all that was done, the band was turned under and finished with hidden slip stitch.

Birgitta cap, race to the finish

Birgitta cap, starting front band
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I've gotten a lot done on my Birgitta cap since the last time I posted, but apparently I forgot to take photos of any of it? My deadline for finishing is in just a few days, though, so for now the time goes to getting it done and writing up documentation, with a final set of posts here to come later.

Birgitta cap - working both sides toward the middle

Birgitta cap - working toward the middle
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I can't overstate how much easier it has been to work the looping threads with a more open base.

Right now, I've got the fourth looping thread almost finished (two along each fabric edge), and I'm trying to figure out exactly how I'm going to finish the middle.

For anyone working from the article in Medieval Clothing & Textiles 4 (Fig 6.15 on page 137), please note that there are some errors in the diagram. The first two drawings on the left have a different under/over pattern from the one at the bottom (which is correct). And as far as getting from the second one on the right to the last one, it might as well say "magic happens here". I'm not entirely convinced that the final diagram is even a possible pattern of continuous threads - I'll be making mine up as I go.

A fresh start for the new year

On New Year's Day, I decided that I really did want a fresh start on my Birgitta cap. So I took scissors all the way up the back, and ripped it all out. I made all the modifications that I'd been pondering - I measured out all the spacing on the backing cloth beforehand. I sewed the outer fabric to the backing cloth firmly and at close spacing, rather than basting. I waxed my thread. I worked out in both directions from the middle, so that I could use a thread long enough to reach end-to-end with some to spare. And so far, I am much more optimistic about the result. Here's to a New Year, and not settling for something that makes you unhappy.

Second set of retinue bags for Calontir (SCA)

Second finished bag, HisRM
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.


Second finished bag, HerRM
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

For an interlude between the projects that are currently frustrating me, here's a second set of bags that I made and gave to our regional SCA group. Like the first set, they are self-lined bags of linen canvas, with embroidered design in crewel wool. These ones used chain stitch (crosses), split stitch (crowns and laurel wreath), and back stitch (roses).