A rookie mistake

Chemise seams
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I'm working on a matching chemise for the black transitional kirtle - a pretty simple piece of untailored, geometric cut sewing. That didn't stop me from making a really brain-dead mistake.

I had made a mock-up based on measurements, sewed it quickly by machine, and everything was fine. Cut the real one to be hand sewn to the same measurements, starting sewing, and what do you know, the sleeves don't fit at all (too tight in the elbows). Because I had used french seams with very scant seam allowance on the machine sewn one, and had given a more generous allowance on hand sewing, to make turning the edges for false-french finishing easier. And that was the difference between a sleeve that lets me bend my elbow and one that doesn't.

So... move all the seams out that quarter-inch, and deal with very scant allowances for turning. And feel like you really ought to be past this sort of mistake.

Transitional gown project progress

I got the black kirtle finished enough to wear last weekend, and I'm really happy with it. Of course, I completely forgot to get a picture of how it turned out. I had been hoping that one of our roving photographers caught me, but so far I've only managed to find myself in the background. So that's mostly done - hemmed and seams finished. The sleeves are still a bit funky, might rip them out and start over, and I remain undecided on whether to add a lining for the bodice. I've moved on to a chemise with a matching neckline, which should go relatively quickly.

In the meantime, here are some roughly contemporary portraits:
Portrait of a Lady with a Carnation, Master of the Legend of Saint Ursula
Portrait of a Donatrix, Lucas Cranach the Elder
Portrait of a Female Donor, Jan Provost
And of course Portrait of Margaret of Austria, Jean Hey (called Master of Moulins)

Kirtle progress - sleeves and little details

I've continued working on the black kirtle as I have time, although there aren't any dramatic (or particularly photogenic) changes. I put hooks and eyes in for the skirt portion of the front opening, with the two edges overlapped the same way they are for the lacing so there aren't any visible gaps. Last night, I drafted out short little sleeves for it (pictures/mini-tutorial: 1 2 3 4 5 6). Sleeveless would be an option as well, I think, but both cases would usually have separate pin-on long sleeves if being worn without an overgown, and the sleeves I make for my earlier dresses don't come up quite far enough to the shoulder. In the interest of being able to re-use pieces, this dress will have short sleeves too. Now it's on to all the seam finishing for the bodice seams before I set in the sleeves. After that, seam finishing in the skirt, hemming, and deciding whether to add a lining in the bodice.

Perseverance has its rewards

Kirtle - testing fit with the eyelets in
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I put in the last dozen or so eyelets on the kirtle today. I am so sick of eyelets, it was really a case of having to force myself to work on them. But they are all in now, and I could really try the dress on for the first time without pins or basting.

I think I'm in love. I am so much more motivated to keep working on this, because I want to wear this dress pretty much immediately.

Eyelets are slow work

Eyelets in progress
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

The picture isn't great (black on black), but I'm halfway through the eyelets for the front closure on the kirtle. This feels like it is going to take forever...

The finally-finished surcoat

Early 14th c. surcoat
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I was able to hem this in the car on the way to an event. (Although it ended up being too warm to need or want it.)

It really is a simple garment. Rectangular body; gores for front, back, and sides; and scoops cut for the neck and arms. Easier than a tunic.