Last weekend, I finally got through the last bit of finishing for my new coat, which was the closures for the front opening. I used small round glass beads for buttons, building a short thread shank right on the front edge. Then I made a finger-loop braid using silk sewing thread and the first braid described on Phiala's string page.
I attached the braid to the opposite edge using a whip stitch that alternately pierced the braid and the fabric. At each point where I needed a loop, I took a few extra stitches to secure the braid, made a loop and took two stitches in place going around the braid rather than piercing it. This left the loop temporarily adjustable and allowed me to tighten to just the right size for the buttons. Once the size was set, I took several stitches in place, piercing both layers of braid at the crossover, before moving down the edge toward the next one.
The end result is a very delicate, fine finish, and it works really well.
21 February 2014
27 January 2014
Fuzzy fezzy felted hat
Combine friends, projects, and learning new things, and you might end up with an awesome weekend plus a cool new hat.
A friend of mine has recently been felting a lot of hats, and after watching her work on a few that were in different stages of finishing, I wanted to do one but couldn't figure out what style to go with. Once we realized we had a block that would work for the little pillbox/very short hennin type that would go with my transitional gown project, though, that had to happen.
We started with unspun roving piled in layers around a waterproof pattern that provided a resist. After a lot of soapy water, agitation, reheating, and rolling, it shrank down to this impressively thick hat blank.
After letting it dry overnight, I ironed it to get a nice smooth surface on the felt, and then we steamed it and aggressively stretched it to get it over the hat block in the picture. (The block is the middle and lower portions of one designed for a fez). It's not completely done - the bottom edge needs to be trimmed to the correct length, and it will probably also need some stiffening (wire and/or thinned glue, maybe?).
I can hardly wait to get this finished; it's going to be fabulous!
A friend of mine has recently been felting a lot of hats, and after watching her work on a few that were in different stages of finishing, I wanted to do one but couldn't figure out what style to go with. Once we realized we had a block that would work for the little pillbox/very short hennin type that would go with my transitional gown project, though, that had to happen.
We started with unspun roving piled in layers around a waterproof pattern that provided a resist. After a lot of soapy water, agitation, reheating, and rolling, it shrank down to this impressively thick hat blank.
After letting it dry overnight, I ironed it to get a nice smooth surface on the felt, and then we steamed it and aggressively stretched it to get it over the hat block in the picture. (The block is the middle and lower portions of one designed for a fez). It's not completely done - the bottom edge needs to be trimmed to the correct length, and it will probably also need some stiffening (wire and/or thinned glue, maybe?).
I can hardly wait to get this finished; it's going to be fabulous!
16 January 2014
Second finished thing of 2014: man's tunic
There's a lot going on in this photograph, which includes several of my nearest and dearest.
But the reason it's on the blog here is the green tunic on the man second from the right. It's a simple tunic in a suit-weight wool. I'm still debating adding contrast bands via appliqué to the neckline and wrists, but it's finished as is and might stay that way. I think it fits him pretty well, at any rate.
But the reason it's on the blog here is the green tunic on the man second from the right. It's a simple tunic in a suit-weight wool. I'm still debating adding contrast bands via appliqué to the neckline and wrists, but it's finished as is and might stay that way. I think it fits him pretty well, at any rate.
07 January 2014
The very pet-able hennin
The last project started in 2013 is the first one finished in 2014.
My first hennin was of buckram and wire construction. I've been pretty happy with it, and I've used it at least occasionally for years, but it was starting to get a bit beat up. So I decided to make a new one, and try a different construction method.
The structure of this one is made of two layers of heavy (but unstiffened) linen, with channels filled with reed. It collapses flat when not being worn, so it's pretty resistant to being crushed. The outer fabric is a rather luscious velvet (hence the pet-able hennin). I'd hoped to have enough of the velvet to do at least a band of drape for the front, but sadly there wasn't an appropriately shaped piece.
I also made a round bonnet to go with it, working from the pattern in The Queen's Servants, which worked really well.
The hat worked pretty well in practice, but I need to work in securing my understructure to keep everything steady. My black band under the hood kept slipping back, which threw everything off, and I think I need to pin the hat down to the hood, since the base of it isn't quite big enough to really grip my head. Overall, though, I'd rate it a success.
My first hennin was of buckram and wire construction. I've been pretty happy with it, and I've used it at least occasionally for years, but it was starting to get a bit beat up. So I decided to make a new one, and try a different construction method.
The structure of this one is made of two layers of heavy (but unstiffened) linen, with channels filled with reed. It collapses flat when not being worn, so it's pretty resistant to being crushed. The outer fabric is a rather luscious velvet (hence the pet-able hennin). I'd hoped to have enough of the velvet to do at least a band of drape for the front, but sadly there wasn't an appropriately shaped piece.
I also made a round bonnet to go with it, working from the pattern in The Queen's Servants, which worked really well.
The hat worked pretty well in practice, but I need to work in securing my understructure to keep everything steady. My black band under the hood kept slipping back, which threw everything off, and I think I need to pin the hat down to the hood, since the base of it isn't quite big enough to really grip my head. Overall, though, I'd rate it a success.
31 December 2013
Unfinished projects of 2013
Some people are posting wrap-up summaries of all the things they made this year. I figured I'd have more to talk about if instead, I covered all the things that are currently lying around in my sewing area.
Half a chemise. This is for the 1490s transitional gown project. Still needs: second sleeve attached, gores attached, neckline cut and finished, and hemmed.
Mostly done black kirtle. This is so close to done, and I've worn it already; I might wear it again this weekend and I should really remember to take pictures. Still needs: lining, and maybe replacements for those darn sleeves.
16th century Persian coat. This is luscious, I love the silk. Still needs to be hemmed, and buttons+button loop closures.
12th century wool tunic for my husband. I don't post about things for the man very often, since his style tends toward quite plain, but there it is. This still needs hand-finishing for points of gores, neckline, and hems. Plus I was debating adding contrast accents for the neckline and sleeves.
Enough fabric buttons for the sleeves of my Moy gown. I can't use these until I can manage buttonholes I don't hate...
And last but not least, a new hennin with bonnet. This is just a mock-up, started yesterday... for this weekend. Wish me luck!
And apparently, this is my 100th post. That's a nice way to round out the year :)
Half a chemise. This is for the 1490s transitional gown project. Still needs: second sleeve attached, gores attached, neckline cut and finished, and hemmed.
Mostly done black kirtle. This is so close to done, and I've worn it already; I might wear it again this weekend and I should really remember to take pictures. Still needs: lining, and maybe replacements for those darn sleeves.
16th century Persian coat. This is luscious, I love the silk. Still needs to be hemmed, and buttons+button loop closures.
12th century wool tunic for my husband. I don't post about things for the man very often, since his style tends toward quite plain, but there it is. This still needs hand-finishing for points of gores, neckline, and hems. Plus I was debating adding contrast accents for the neckline and sleeves.
Enough fabric buttons for the sleeves of my Moy gown. I can't use these until I can manage buttonholes I don't hate...
And last but not least, a new hennin with bonnet. This is just a mock-up, started yesterday... for this weekend. Wish me luck!
And apparently, this is my 100th post. That's a nice way to round out the year :)
09 December 2013
Non-sewing diversions
While the things I post here are mostly restricted to historic sewing, I am multi-crafty (in a ridiculous oh shiny sort of way). I took some enameling classes about six months ago, and I've been very taken with it. This is the latest piece that I have finished, and I wanted to share because I am inordinately proud of it.
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