So, after the let-down caused by actually following the pattern directions, I'm going to consider them more like 'suggestions', starting with re-drafting the top of the skirt portion. Here's a picture of the new piece, laid out flat. And, as you can see with the pleats set in, the top of the skirts reach the waist without pulling the hemline up. So, at right, is the current stage of fitting (see also: back).
I'm pretty happy with this stage of fitting, although I'm still working out a few wrinkles in the outer fabric. I'm going to cut the neckline wider, and possibly a bit lower, and neither the skirts or the petticoat have been hemmed to length yet (they'll be closer to ankle length). I am second-guessing the shape of the bum roll a little, it seems too abrupt and angular to me.