29 August 2010

Sleeves for the Robe Anglais


Sleeves with elbows set
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.
I decided that I wanted really simple sleeves to go with this dress, so I drafted these from one of the examples in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. They came together really nicely and happened to fit well with only the most minor of adjustments (I needed a little more flare at the top of the seam). They're lined in a lightweight linen, a bit nicer and finer than the medium-weight I used for the bodice lining.

01 August 2010

Project déjà vu


Robe Anglais progress, front
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.
At first glance, this progress photo on my 18th c. dress looks a lot like the previous one that I posted last year. But in the details, there's actually been some progress. The petticoat is hemmed, and many of the bodice seams are sewn rather than pinned or basted. I turned up a deep seam allowance on the lower edge of the bodice, which helps the waist-to-hip transition not seem so severe. (These gowns do have low waists, significantly bellow the natural waist, but it's still possible to make them too low.)

In the photo, the skirt pleats are pinned in but not sewn, and only draped into place under the bodice edge. Also, the front opening is just messily pinned to the stays to hold it in place temporarily. I've since sewn down the pleats and pinned the whole section to where it will attach to the bodice (interior exterior). Because I got ahead of myself and finished the lining and outer fabric of the bodice together at the lower edge, that leaves the top of the skirt with raw edges exposed on the inside of the dress, but I'm not going to re-do it just so that I can hide them between the bodice layers - this is technically just my practice gown, and no one will see!

I'm pretty confident about the fit of it at this point, so the next steps will be putting in hidden hooks and eyes for front closure, making minor adjustments around the neckline and shoulders, and adding sleeves.