Unfinished projects of 2013

Unfinished projects of 2013
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

Some people are posting wrap-up summaries of all the things they made this year. I figured I'd have more to talk about if instead, I covered all the things that are currently lying around in my sewing area.

Half a chemise. This is for the 1490s transitional gown project. Still needs: second sleeve attached, gores attached, neckline cut and finished, and hemmed.

Mostly done black kirtle. This is so close to done, and I've worn it already; I might wear it again this weekend and I should really remember to take pictures. Still needs: lining, and maybe replacements for those darn sleeves.

16th century Persian coat. This is luscious, I love the silk. Still needs to be hemmed, and buttons+button loop closures.

12th century wool tunic for my husband. I don't post about things for the man very often, since his style tends toward quite plain, but there it is. This still needs hand-finishing for points of gores, neckline, and hems. Plus I was debating adding contrast accents for the neckline and sleeves.

Enough fabric buttons for the sleeves of my Moy gown. I can't use these until I can manage buttonholes I don't hate...

And last but not least, a new hennin with bonnet. This is just a mock-up, started yesterday... for this weekend. Wish me luck!

And apparently, this is my 100th post. That's a nice way to round out the year :)

Non-sewing diversions

Champleve enamel lily
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

While the things I post here are mostly restricted to historic sewing, I am multi-crafty (in a ridiculous oh shiny sort of way). I took some enameling classes about six months ago, and I've been very taken with it. This is the latest piece that I have finished, and I wanted to share because I am inordinately proud of it.

A rookie mistake

Chemise seams
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I'm working on a matching chemise for the black transitional kirtle - a pretty simple piece of untailored, geometric cut sewing. That didn't stop me from making a really brain-dead mistake.

I had made a mock-up based on measurements, sewed it quickly by machine, and everything was fine. Cut the real one to be hand sewn to the same measurements, starting sewing, and what do you know, the sleeves don't fit at all (too tight in the elbows). Because I had used french seams with very scant seam allowance on the machine sewn one, and had given a more generous allowance on hand sewing, to make turning the edges for false-french finishing easier. And that was the difference between a sleeve that lets me bend my elbow and one that doesn't.

So... move all the seams out that quarter-inch, and deal with very scant allowances for turning. And feel like you really ought to be past this sort of mistake.

Transitional gown project progress

I got the black kirtle finished enough to wear last weekend, and I'm really happy with it. Of course, I completely forgot to get a picture of how it turned out. I had been hoping that one of our roving photographers caught me, but so far I've only managed to find myself in the background. So that's mostly done - hemmed and seams finished. The sleeves are still a bit funky, might rip them out and start over, and I remain undecided on whether to add a lining for the bodice. I've moved on to a chemise with a matching neckline, which should go relatively quickly.

In the meantime, here are some roughly contemporary portraits:
Portrait of a Lady with a Carnation, Master of the Legend of Saint Ursula
Portrait of a Donatrix, Lucas Cranach the Elder
Portrait of a Female Donor, Jan Provost
And of course Portrait of Margaret of Austria, Jean Hey (called Master of Moulins)

Kirtle progress - sleeves and little details

I've continued working on the black kirtle as I have time, although there aren't any dramatic (or particularly photogenic) changes. I put hooks and eyes in for the skirt portion of the front opening, with the two edges overlapped the same way they are for the lacing so there aren't any visible gaps. Last night, I drafted out short little sleeves for it (pictures/mini-tutorial: 1 2 3 4 5 6). Sleeveless would be an option as well, I think, but both cases would usually have separate pin-on long sleeves if being worn without an overgown, and the sleeves I make for my earlier dresses don't come up quite far enough to the shoulder. In the interest of being able to re-use pieces, this dress will have short sleeves too. Now it's on to all the seam finishing for the bodice seams before I set in the sleeves. After that, seam finishing in the skirt, hemming, and deciding whether to add a lining in the bodice.

Perseverance has its rewards

Kirtle - testing fit with the eyelets in
Originally uploaded by Catrijn.

I put in the last dozen or so eyelets on the kirtle today. I am so sick of eyelets, it was really a case of having to force myself to work on them. But they are all in now, and I could really try the dress on for the first time without pins or basting.

I think I'm in love. I am so much more motivated to keep working on this, because I want to wear this dress pretty much immediately.